Bmw X5 E53 Drivers Door Wont Open From Outside

SOURCE: my x5 bmw driver door willnot open from outside. It sounds like the handle may be broken. BMW E53 x5 Front Door Will Not Open Outside Door Handle. Dec 18, 2010 2003 E53 X5, door handle wont open door. Download Noise 2007 Rapidshare. Now the drivers door will not open from the outside but. Into my X5 and now the drivers door will not open.

Electrical problem 2000 BMW X5 V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 96,000 miles HELLO - I need to gain access to the door panel; my door is stuck shut and will not open! It's unlocked though. I currently have to crawl through the passenger side and hop over into the drivers seat. Is there a way to remove the door and if so. What about the side airbags? (I believe the cords/cables that connect the handle to the mechanism are stretched too far or broken so how do I get the door panel off to inspect?). The problem is the door latch mechanism is bad and needs replacement.

The method I use to get the door panel off is to get the screws loose, one is behind the plastic plug that has 'SRS' on it, one is behind the wood trim. The panel is held on with plastic clips that have to be forced off. Even after the panel comes off, there is still the stuck door, and it will require the removal of the vapor barrier, try to save it if you can, if not replace it with new and use new mastic or the rain water can wet the carpets. I have done this job and the possibility exists the door panel will be damaged during this activity, be aware.

Quite a few of us have experienced problems with the door locks sticking whereby either (a) the door cannot latch closed (pull the door closed and it just swings open again - the latch will not catch) or (b) the door has latched closed and now cannot be opened from either the inside or outside handles even though the door pin/operating rod pops up and down ok with the central locking. Although there are various things that can go wrong with the lock and outside handle carrier - a common problem can be caused by the door lock mechanism sticking due to corrosion of the moving parts where the cable from the outside handle carrier connects to the door lock. Pulling the outside handle causes the lock mechanism to move up but then it sticks in the up position and it's return spring does not reset it to the resting position when the handle is released. This situation leaves the inner lock mechanism in a position where neither the outside or inside handle can release the catch to open the door. Ms Office 2007 Free Download For Xp here. Ibm Thinkcentre 8212 Drivers Download here. Lubricating the sticking part involves accessing the door lock which of course involves removing the door card, side airbag and then the lock. Sounds a bit daunting but it's actually strightforward enough and the whole job took me about an hour not having done it before.

Of course if the situation is as (b) above then the lock mechanism must be unstuck before the door can be opened to remove the lock. The good news is that it is possible to free the stuck mechanism without risking any damage or attempting to remove the door card with the door still closed!!! Once you know in your minds eye the whereabouts of the stuck parts within the door cavity - a little 'keyhole surgery' is all that's needed to get the door open. You will need the following: 20 inches of wire coat hanger or welding rod or similar thin but stiff wire to free the stuck lock mechanism.

T20 Torx driver/wrench to remove door card. T30 Torx driver/wrench to remove door lock. 4mm Hex wrench to remove the key cylinder (only required if working on the drivers door). 10mm Socket/wrench to remove the side airbag.

Flat head driver to pry door card clips, window switch and footwell light. Spray on grease to lubricate the lock mechanism. I used a welding rod which is quite thin but also very stiff. A wire coat hanger should work just as well. Put a small right angle bend about 8mm on one end and mark the wire about 10 inches from this bend with some tape (as a depth gauge). Bend the other end of the wire in the same or opposite direction (so you can tell which way the other end is pointing when it's in the door). With the window open - the wire can be pushed down into the door cavity where the inner window channel cover ends.

By pure chance, this entry point will drop the wire down exactly where you need it to go! DO NOT PUT THE WIRE DOWN BETWEEN THE GLASS AND THE INNER SEAL - THIS WILL SCRATCH THE WINDOW TINT!!! Here is a link to the.

Part #1 is the focus of our attention. Here is a pic of the welding rod I prepared for the job and illustrates how far the wire will need to go down into the door cavity. Okay - let's get started! Open the window and insert the wire between the rubber channel cover and window frame as shown and push it down vertically about 9 to 10 inches with the bent end pointing towards the door jamb. Use the bend at the other end of the wire as a direction reference. Raise the outside handle slightly as you prod downwards with the wire. When you feel the handle being pulled back in as you prod down - you know the wire is hitting the right spot.